Location:

DCU Center : 50 Foster St. Worcester, MA 01608

Dates and time:

Friday, March 9th: 5 pm – 9 pm

Saturday, March 10th: 10 am – 6 pm

Sunday, March 11th: 11 am – 5 pm

Cost of Admission:

Free

Parking:

Parking lots nearby, but none affiliated with the DCU building.  Try garage on 30 Major Taylor Blvd, on the corner of MLK Blvd.  Note that there is no validated parking for any parking lot.

Directions:

From the North:

Go on route 12 south to route 190 south, then 290 west.  Take exit 18, follow signs to DCU center

From the East:

Take route 9 into Worcester.  Wait until you cross into Worcester proper, signaled by the White City Shopping Center.  Go 8 lights, take a left on Major Taylor Blvd.  Go 4 lights.  DCU center is on your right.

From the South:

Go route 395 North to route 290 East.  Take exit 16, go left at the ramp’s end.  Go 3 lights, DCU Center is on your left.

From the West:

Go route I-90 east.  Bear left after tollbooth.  Take 290 east, then exit 16.  Turn left at bottom of ramp, go 3 lights.  DCU Center is on your left.

When first exploring a siding installation project many homeowners assume the best way to install vinyl siding is right on top of their existing wood shingles or clapboard.

So let’s answer the questions: “Is it a good idea to install vinyl siding over existing wood shingles or clapboards?”

There have been a few select cases in which we as a company were willing to do this, but it’s rare–probably less than 1% of our siding installations.  So our answer is typically “NO, it’s rarely a good idea to install vinyl siding over wood.” Why?

  1. Hidden Rot, Mold, and Deterioration
  2. Lack of Weather Protection
  3. Adds Thickness to Walls

1. Hidden Rot, Mold, and DeteriorationRotted-wall-under-vinyl-sid

1. Most likely there is more rot, damage, or mold under your existing siding than you ever expected.  Installing another layer of siding would not solve the problem and in fact make it worse. We’ve completed thousands of siding projects over the years and in most cases we find some amount of rot, mold, or deterioration that was undetectable from the surface. It’s not usually widespread (Although is some cases it is), but it’s enough that homeowners are usually shocked at what is found. The second reaction from homeowners is that they’re glad they didn’t just go over the old siding with another layer.

2. Lack of Weather Protection

2. When installing a layer of siding over another layer, you forgo the option to wrap the wall with a moisture protection barrier, also known as a vapor barrier. The most common product is Tyvek®, but there are other products like Typar®, and Everwrap®. Although thin, these products perform a significant duty in protecting your home.  A moisture barrier provides protection from outside moisture, but is breathable in order to let built-up moisture escape from your home.  In conjunction with wall insulation, moisture barriers also reduce draftiness.

3. Adds Undesirable Thickness to Walls

bad-windows-with-vinyl-sidiThe most common practice when installing vinyl siding over existing wood shingles or clapboard is to first put up rigid foam or fan fold.  These products are designed primarily to pad imperfections on the walls so the new layer of siding will lay flatter.  However,this means adding 1/2″ padding, and another 3/4″ or 1″ of siding to your existing wall.  It total you’ve added about 2″ of thickness to the walls which means your windows and doors will be set in more than usual.  Most people consider this a rather unattractive look.

Location:

100 Twin River Rd. Rt. 146, Lincoln, RI

Hours:

Saturday, February 18th: 10 am – 8 pm

Sunday, February 19th: 10 am – 5 pm

Directions:

From Providence: Take 146N to Twin River Rd.  Exit in Lincoln, RI.

From Smithfield: Follow Rt. 146S to Twin River Rd.  Exit in Lincoln, RI.

Cost:

Admission: $8.00

Kids under 12 are free if accompanied by an adult.

Parking:

Plenty of free parking at the show

About The Show:

The Northern Rhode Island Home Show is now going on its fourth year, and it remains one of the premier new shows in the region.  Attendance has steadily been growing despite the economy.  The Northern Rhode Island Home Show is held at the Twin River Casino and Event Center and features over 200 booths and is sure to be a great draw for all those looking into homes.

This video demonstrates how the external baffle of Shingle-Vent II makes it a better protectant against water infiltration in comparison with several different styles of ridge vents. Architectural Testing Labs tested the consistent reliability of Shingle Vent II by installing each ridge vent according to manufacturers’ instructions on a 4-12 roof. They then monitored the roofs to see how much water leaked through each vent. The video footage reveals how the external baffle of Shingle-Vent II protects the attic from rain infiltration even under drastic wind conditions of 110 mile wind speeds. The external baffle deflects wind over the vent preventing rain infiltration into the attic, while other ridge vents allowed in 2-4 gallons of water. For example, the VentSure ridge vent leaked more than 2 gallons of water, the Roll Vent ridge vent leaked more than 3 1/3, and the RidgeMaster ridge vent leaked more than 3 1/2 gallons. The Shingle-Vent II, on the other hand, with its external baffle did not permit any water to leak into the attic.

In comparison with several different ventilations systems, the Shingle-Vent II ridge vent lets in less water and snow. In considering ridge vents, you may be wondering why having a ridge vent that is weather resistant is so important. If you install a ridge vent that is not weather resistant, water and snow that infiltrates your attic can cause damage there or elsewhere in your house, and you may not even know it is leaking until it’s too late. Be sure to thoroughly investigate your ridge vent options to confirm that you are making a worthwhile investment into improving your home.

Take a look at this well done video from our friends at Weathertight in Wisconsin. It explains their process of installing replacement windows and also discusses things to consider when deciding if replacement windows are right for your home.

The decision to replace windows on a home is one of the biggest investments a homeowner will make. You may think that your windows are good enough or can get you by a few more years. Take a few moments to watch this short video on why you may want to replace your decent looking older windows.

Now that the importance of ventilation has been established this article will talk about the common types of attic ventilation.

Gable VentsRoof-Gable-Vents

These are openings in the gable (peaks at the ends of the house) which are usually rectangular in shape but can also be triangle, oval or other such shape.  This method provides for cross ventilation but only moves air in the upper portion of the attic.  This is how many homes were built prior to the use of ridge vents.  What many customers and contractor aren’t aware of is if a house has properly installed lower ventilation and upper ventilation then gable vents are actually counter- productive as they interfere with the convection action.

Roof-Ridge-Vents

Ridge vents-

A ridge vent is a cut down the center of the roof at the peak, which exposes the rafters of the roof and allows for the escape of air.  The opening is then sheltered with a baffeled cover which prevents water and critters from getting in.  Finally it is capped with roofing shingles to blend in with the rest of the roof.

Soffit Vents-Roof-Soffit-Vents

These are openings which are cut into the soffit (overhang) allowing for the intake of exterior air up into the attic space.  It is very important to make sure that attic insulation is not blocking the outer wall and stuffed all the way down into the rafters, as the opening will be blocked and airflow will not be achieved.  If the air space is blocked this can be remedied by installing what are called “baffles”.  Baffles are simply Styrofoam pieces that are stuffed down in the rafters on the outer wall of the attic keeping the insulation pulled back allowing a channel for the airflow.

Roof-ConvectionConvection-

The best designed ventilation systems have what is called “convection” with lower intake of air and upper outflow of air.  Cooler, dryer outside air will enter the soffit vent near the attic floor which in turn forces the existing heat and moisture filled air out through the ridge vent placed high on the roof peak.

Unique Challenges-

Some houses are constructed in such ways that different types of ventilation, such as power venting and static vents, are required.  United Home Experts is skilled in handling these unique challenges.  Contact us today for a free no obligation roofing estimate.

For information about how much roofing costs read this article: “How Much Does A New Roof Cost?

Or to learn more about proper roofing installation, download our free guide:

Suburban Boston Home Show 2012

Location: Aleppo Shriners 99 Fordham Road WilmingtonMA 01887-0578

Show Hours:

Friday, February 10, 11:00am – 10:00pm
Saturday, February 11, 10:00am – 10:00pm
Sunday, February 12, 10:00am – 6:00pm

Directions:

Shriners Auditorium is conveniently located off I-93 in Wilmington, MA.
Coming north or south, take Exit 39
Bear right at end of ramp onto Concord Street
Take first left at Fordham Road lights
Follow to end, and you will see signs to auditorium and parking areas.

Home Show FAQs:

What is the cost to attend?
Admission is FREE.

Is parking available?
Yes, parking is available at no charge.

Where can I buy tickets?
Admission is FREE, tickets are not being sold for this show.

Can I purchase products at the show?
Yes, many exhibitors sell their products or contract for services on-site at the show, often at a discount. Ask individual exhibitors for details.

Are discount admission coupons available?
No, admission is FREE for this show.

Are food and refreshments available?
Yes, there is a concession during show hours where snacks and beverages can be purchased.

Does the facility have wheelchair access?
Yes, but the facility does not have wheelchairs available for public use.

Can I bring a stroller?
Yes, strollers are welcome in all areas of the show floor.

This video demonstrates how Shingle-Vent II is the better ventilating system in comparison with several different styles of ridge vents. The University of Florida tested the consistent reliability of Shingle Vent II by building a special test house with two separate attic chambers built exactly alike. One attic chamber has the Shingle Vent II installed, while the other attic chamber has an unbaffled vent. Inside the attic chamber with Shingle-Vent II, they placed an orange smoke stick. In an identical position in the other attic chamber, they placed a yellow smoke stick of identical length and smoke volume. The orange and yellow colored smoke allows you to see how each vent operates. The external baffle permits smoke to come out of both sides of the ridge vent, while the unbaffled vent does not. As a result, the external baffle vent of the Shingle-Vent II evacuates more smoke than the unbaffled vent.

Camera’s inside the attic spaces also show how the Shingle-Vent II helps to evacuate the air. The Shingle-Vent II harnesses the wind to ventilate the attic, pumping the air out, and clearing out the spoke quicker. As the video demonstrates, several different unbaffled vents were tested alongside the Shingle-Vent II, and each test demonstrates how much more effectively the Shingle-Vent II ventilates the attic. From the vent with the external baffles, the Shingle-Vent II, smoke came out equally from both sides of the ridge vent and attic spaces cleared quicker, even under different wind conditions.

In considering ridge vents, you may be wondering why a better ventilating ridge vent is important. Better ventilating ridge vents release moisture and therefore decrease mold problems. Lower heat in your attic as a result of a better ventilating ridge vent means ice won’t freeze, then thaw and build up ice dams. Thus a better ventilating ridge vent will reduce ice dams overall. Lower heat in your attic during the summer makes your house easier to cool and can therefore lower energy bills. These are just a few factors that are important to consider when choosing a ridge vent that will improve the quality of your home.

roof_knowledge_12roof_knowledge_13

Deck/Sheathing:
The wood product-usually rough lumber or plywood -to which the roofing shingles are installed. These boards are fastened to the rafters of the roof.

Dormer:
A small structure projecting from a sloped roof, usually with one or more windows.  There are many types of dormers including gable dormers and shed dormers.

Drip edge:
A flashing (usually metal) applied around the roof edges to help water coming off the roof drain properly.  Drip edge tries to direct water to “drip” to the ground or surface below rather than run down the fascia or siding.

Eave:
The horizontal lower edge of sloped roof usually attached to the rafter tails (ends of roof rafters).

Fascia:
A flat board, band or face located at the outer edge of the roof.  This term is sometimes uses interchangeably with “Eave”.

Felt/underlayment:
A sheet of asphalt-saturated material–either paper or fiberglass (often called “tar paper”) used as a layer of protection between the shingles and sheathing.

Flashing:
Pieces of metal used to prevent the seepage of water around any intersection or projection in a roof, such as vent pipes, chimneys, valleys, and the joints at vertical walls.

Fire rating:
The Underwriters Laboratories (UL) system for classifying the fire-resistance of various materials. Roofing materials are “Class A,” “B” or “C,” with “A” materials having the highest resistance to fire originating outside the structure.

Louvers:
Slatted devices installed in the gable or soffit (the underside of the eaves) to ventilate the space below the roof deck and equalize air temperature and moisture.

Oriented-strand board/OSB:
Roof deck panels (4’ x 8’) made of narrow bits of wood, laid down lengthwise and crosswise in layers, held together with a resin “glue.” Often used as a substitute for plywood sheets.

Penetrations:
Vents, pipes, stacks, chimneys-anything that sticks up through the roof deck.

Rafters:
The supporting framing to which the roof deck is attached.

Rake:
The inclined edge of a roof over a wall.

Ridge:
The top edge of two intersecting sloping roof surfaces.

Slope:
Measured by rise in inches for each 12 inches of horizontal run: A roof with a 4-in-12 slope rises 4 inches for every foot.

Square:
The common measurement for roof area-100 square feet (10’ x 10’)

Truss:
The engineered components which have supplemented rafters in many newer houses. They are designed for specific applications and cannot be cut or altered in any way.

Valley:
The angle formed at the intersection of two sloping roof surfaces.

Vapor Retarder:
A material designed to restrict the passage of water vapor through a roof or wall.

Thanks to Shawn K. from Weed Pro in Ohio for this awesome blog post!  I bet if you think about you’ll agree, we subconsciously evaluate a home in part by the health of the lawn.

What’s it Worth to You?

We all know that improving your home’s roof, siding, and windows can have an immediate impact on the value of your home.  But lawn_caredid you know that improving the look and color of your lawn has an impact too?

More than likely, the last place that anyone looks to increase there home’s value is to improve his or her lawn and landscape.  However, a well-manicured lawn and landscape, according to some real estate agents, can raise your property’s value by over 5%.  At those rates, improving your lawn and landscape is an easy way to improve your investment in your home.

Lawn care is even more important when selling your home.  Not only does a beautiful landscape increase your home’s value, but it also serves as the first impression to potential buyers when approaching your home. A lawn overridden by weeds and dead brush can automatically give a negative perception of the house, even before seeing what the inside has to offer.

Tips for Improving that Lawn

 

  1. Test your soil.   A good-looking lawn starts with understanding what kind of food your lawn needs to grow strong and healthy.  Most home improvement stores sell soil-testing kits, and all good professional lawn care companies provide testing at no charge.
  2. Feed Me!  Fertilizing your lawn is not as easy as it may sound.  Like your body, it needs certain nutrients.  After receiving the results of your soil test, you’ll know exactly what your lawn needs, and can layout a proper “nutrition” plan to keep it green!
  3. Preemergents are you friends!  The best way to get rid of weeds and crabgrass is to prevent them from growing early in the year with fertilizers that contain preemergents.
  4. Spot treat your weeds.  Ever here the term, “they are growing like a weed?”  Well, it’s true.  Even if you put down preemergent and follow up with “weed & feed” fertilizers, weeds will pop up in between treatments.  The best way to hand this is to buy a bottle of selective spot weed killer and take care of them as they pop up.

Follow these simple steps and you’ll have a weed-free, beautiful lawn that will have the neighbors in awe!

Shaun Kanary is with Weed Pro, an Ohio lawn care company based in Cleveland, Ohio.  To read more tips and tricks, visit their lawn care website.